Updated January 4, 2021
In Minnesota, Bruce Bernhart has been a mandolin player/enthusiast since the 1980's
The Bernhart Mandolin Webpages explore the history of the mandolin, buying and building mandolins, the various makes and models of mandolins available on the market, basic chord structures, different styles of playing, practice exercises, tabs, and performance.
Review how to tune the mandolin- EADG. Use tuner and know the 7th fret method.
Know the major scale on the mandolin- see illustration #1.
An "interval" is the distance between notes. Review what a "third" interval is. As an example, look at where the C note is on your diagram, and move up four frets to the E. A "third" is actually four frets up.
Note the interval pattern of whole notes and half notes on illustration #1. The major scale always climbs two frets at a time except between the 3rd and 4th notes of the scale and between the 7th and 8th notes of the scale. Between those two pairs, you climb only a half step (one fret).
Review your first position major scales for D and A (see the handout). These two scales include the most number of open strings.
Know where the "root" note is, both at the start of the scale and at the end of the scale. The root notes are in red. The circled notes are "bluesy" notes.
That's because they are flatted. The 3rd, the 5th and 7th notes are all flatted notes or "blue" notes.
Practice the A and D scales up and down until you can play them smooth. Make each note clear. No dead notes!
Practice the tab for Old Joe Clark on the Bernhart tab sheet, part A only. Play slow, make each note clear and clean.
When you're ready to buy your mandolin, some important things to keep in mind:
-- One of the most important things to look for is a straight fingerboard. A curved or bowed fingerboard will set you up for all kinds of trouble when you play higher
notes up the neck. Place a ruler or some other straight edge on the fingetboard and check to see that it is straight. It may not be perfect, but you'll be able to tell if the fingerboard is concave or convex. If you detect a small curve or bowing, the "buzz" test, next, will determine whether you will still able to play it OK.
-- Check the "action" of the strings, or in other words, the distance between the strings and the fingerboard. You want that distance to be as small as possible without any buzzing or string rattling. This is especially important for beginning mandolinists because the higher the action is, the more force it is going to take to press on the strings. Sometimes it is necessary to adjust the nut, which is the small piece that separates the strings from the peghead. Press each string from the bottom to the top of the fingerboard and make sure each note is clean without any buzzing. You might also want to insert a small piece of leather or felt under the strings just behind the nut (where the neck joins the nut). I have found that this helps dampen any secondary tones that might develop from string vibration. I'd recommend you use felt- it absorbs vibrations very well.
-- The bridge needs to be in its proper place. Check that the harmonics at the 12th fret are exactly the same as the fretted note at the 12th fret. Otherwise, the mandolin will not be playing in tune when fretted in the upper reaches of the neck.
-- When you first buy your mandolin, you should change the strings. Those strings have probably been on there for a long time and often strings that are supplied by the factory are of less quality than strings you would buy at the music store. I would recommend you start out with light strings, as it will make it easier on your fingers.
-- Next, buy an electronic tuner. There are plenty of good ones on the market. I like the ones that you can clip on the peghead, and you can just leave it on the peghead while you play (turn it off, of course, while you are picking!)
You might want to pick up some instrument polish and a cloth to keep it clean. The finishes on less expensive mandos are very thin, so rub lightly. Keep your mando away from substances that will harm it, such as household cleaners and mosquito repellent.
-- Bernhart recommends you buy a strap. The strap will give the mando extra support when you play sitting down, and of course you'll need it whenever you play standing it.
-- Choose a pick that is at least 1 mm in thickness. One of the big mistakes beginners make is buying a pick that is too thin.
If your pick is too thin, you will lose volume and it will be more difficult to tremelo and play at speed. I prefer picks that have a pointed corner, but many players prefer picks that are more rounded. Try each and see what you are comfortable with, but be sure the pick is at least 1 mm thick. Anything thinner and you'll start to lose volume and the ability to create a distinct "chop" against the bass.
Thank you for visiting the Bruce Bernhart Mandolin Websites!
Watch for more Bruce Bernhart websites on scales and chord construction!
Bruce Bernhart mandolin rock tabs
Bruce Bernhart mandolin lessons- common scales
Bruce Bernhart on buying and setting up your new mandolin
Bruce Bernhart mandolin lessons- tuning
Bruce Bernhart mandolin lessons- chord patterns
Bruce Bernhart on mandolin history and basic chord structures
Bruce Bernhart on string and saddle adjustment
Bruce Bernhart more tuning tips and whole/half steps
Bruce Bernhart on more chord patterns
Bruce Bernhart on the mandolin family
Bruce Bernhart on mandolin bluegrass chords and patterns
Bruce Bernhart on temperature considerations
Bruce Bernhart lessson on mandolin flats and sharps
Bruce Bernhart lesson on scales, circle of 5ths and meter
Bruce Bernhart on triads, gears
Bruce Bernhart mandolin chord diagrams
Bruce Bernhart on modern emergence of the mandolin
Bruce Bernhart on simple chords
Bruce Bernhart on whole and half-note steps on the mandolin
Bruce Bernhart mandolin practice excercises
Bruce Bernhart on playing waltzes
Bruce Bernhart on majors, minors and sevenths
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